“full of thrills and excitement throughout this trip, from traditional villages, green hills, pristine forest, amazing landscapes and high mountains, standing on the top of the world’s highest Mt. Everest at 8,848 m, on the footsteps of early pioneering mountaineers “Irving and Mallory”, visiting traditional Tibetan villages and monasteries enrich with old culture, customs are the main attraction and highlights of this mountaineering expeditions”
Trexmount Ventures welcomes you to join in our remarkable and fascinating adventure to Mt. Everest North Col Expeditions. This awesome journey is challenging but stunning experience to climb world’s highest peak from Tibet side. The beauty of Tibetan Plateau and high mountains including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyo, Pumori, Changtse, Lakpa ri will amaze. This expedition occurs within the World Heritage Site “Chomolungma National Park” in Tibet side. The park boundaries extend from Everest, Cho Oyu to Shispangma area on the world’s highest and largest plateau of Tibet
Mt. Everest North Col Expedition takes you to base camp. It offers breathe taking views of the world’s high mountains: Everest (8,848m / 29, 029ft), Lhotse (8,516 m-27,940 ft), Nuptse (7,855 m-25,771 ft), Lho-La or Khumbutse peak (6,036 m – 19,803 ft), Lingtren (6,749 m / 22,142 ft), Changtse ( 7,583 m / 24,879 ft), Pumori (7,161 m / 23,494 ft), Cho-Oyu (8,201 m / 26,906 ft), 14th highest Mt. Shispangma (8,013 m / 26,289 ft), and views as far the world’s 5th highest Mt. Makalu (8,463 m / 27, 766 ft), 3rd highest Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586 m / 28,169 ft) and many other adjoining smaller unnamed peaks.
Mt. Everest, at 8,848 m / 29, 029 ft, is located the North Face around upper Rongbuk River Valley which straddles northern border and barrier between Nepal and Tibet. This mountain is clearly visible from the Tibet side on route to Rongbuk and the huge North Face of Everest.
The North Face in Tibet, lies on the south mid-east Himalayan range. It links with Lho-la, Mt. Lhotse. It is easy to reach Everest Base Camp from Tibet on a recently constructed road all the way to the base camp at 5,200 meter. The road diverts from the main Lhas-Kathmandu highway near Shegar (New Tingri) heading east high above Pang-la pass at 5,200 meters. It offers a complete panorama of all of the Himalayan range of mountains towards south from Tibet, starting from the far east Kanchenjunga to Shisapangma, a stretch of more than 800 km wide range of snow capped peaks with Mt. Everest.
From here the drive leads to base camp through the famous Rongbuk Monastery area, one of the remote and highest monasteries in whole Himalaya range.
Mt. Everest North Col, this route was first tried by many early British and Swiss climbers. In 1924 AD; Irving and Mallory climbed this route and disappeared in thick blanket of snow.
After the conquest of Mt. Everest from South, Nepal side by Tenzing and Hillary on 29th May 1953 AD, no climbers had reached from North Col. In 1960, the 1st Chinese expedition reached the top from Rongbuk and the North side. Since then it has become regular path for expeditions from this side.
From this side Yaks can go up to Camp I at over 6,000 meters high and a truck can be driven all the way to base camp. This makes it far easier in transporting the camping equipment. Climbing is much faster and making the expeditions days shorter.
Mt. Everest is also known as the ‘Third Pole’ because of its evergreen ice and snow with cold temperature of minus – 40 or more, beside high wind and chill factors.
This wonderful adventure to Mt. Everest North Col Expeditions with Trexmount Ventures starts with an interesting drive towards east of Kathmandu on the Lhasa-Kathmandu highway leading towards the frontier town of Zhangmu in Tibet-China side. From here to Nylam we stop for a few days’ rest and acclimatization at 3,540 meters. Here the barren, windswept world’s highest and largest plateau starts.
From here with more rest days at Old Tingri with first views of Mt. Everest and Cho-Oyu appeaar. The journey then leads to Everest base camp after passing through the scenic Pang-la pass and Rongbuk monastery.
From base camp in order to reach Camp I or High Camp, it requires one more camp in between as an interim camp. For the summit bid Trexmount Ventures allocates 20 days maximum starting from ABC- Camp I (advance base camp).
From ABC- Camp I climb a 3 km. buttress to reach the North Col summit to a shoulder. Then the trek reaches the top summit offering a glorious panorama of both sides of the mountains of Tibet-Nepal.
After a great experience of mountaineering and climb of Mt. Everest North Col and feeling high, the visitor returns to base camp. With a day in base camp, we pack and clean-up base camp. The next day we make a scenic drive back to Kathmandu with overnight at Keorung. We then reach Kathmandu with the hustle and bustle city life.
Our representative will come to the airport for transfer to the Hotel. After some refreshment in the hotel, Our Tour leader will make pre departure meeting in the Hotel or at our office. The meetings will covers trip related information’s & collecting your Documents (passport copy, 2 passport size photos, Travel insurance).
These three days in Kathmandu free for individual activities preparations for Mt. Everest North Col expeditions, on these days options for short sightseeing tours at places of interest, and to purchase necessary last minute shopping for climbing equipment, while our guide and management look after logistic, Tibet Visa and climbing permits for Mt. Everest North Col Expedition.
Early morning heading towards Kyrung. after necessary visa formalities at Nepal Tibetborder. will receive with necessary papers for the entry into Tibetan soil. From here another 2 hours drive leading in a gorge following the Bhote Kosi river upstream through beautiful woodlands and waterfalls, and then climb up on the winding road to Nylam town for overnight and first night in Tibet. Overnight in a guesthouse or lodge and having meals across the road restaurant where there are Chinese, Nepali and Tibetan foods can be found.
After a long drive and hectic time through immigration on both side of the border, today at leisure and necessary spare and rest day for acclimatization in Nylam, where the tree lines disappears from here onwards, Nylam is the starting and end point of Tibetan plateau, which is world’s highest and largest windswept and arid plateau. In Nylam there are few places where one can take a short walk the best is visit the Milereppa cave and its monastery just an hour walk on route Laylung pass, Milereppa a11th Centaury saint known for his good preaching, poet, folk songs and miracles performance.
Morning after breakfast at Nylam, drive continues which will be shorter than other day but much higher elevation, leading past Tibetan villages and farms with Yaks, Sheep and goats grazing over the yonder. After an hour drive climbs to Laylung – la at 5,050 meters high pass with super panorama of mountains towards south, looking at Numbur, Gaurishanker, Melung tse, massive bulk of Mt. Shisapangma (last 14th world highest mountain) Dorji Lakpa with Langtang range all these peaks bordering with Nepal / Tibet. From heading downhill and on the level road reaching at Old Tingri, gateways to Mt. Everest and Cho-Oyu also, from here catch the views of Everest and Cho-Oyu, after a break here, another hour drive brings at Shigatse also called as New Tingri which is quite high and windy in afternoon, here just rest and relax in this high elevation.
Today our journey diverts from the main Lhasa / Kathmandu towards North Everest base camp, after a nice overnight at Shegar, drive leads away from the main road, as the ride continues reaching at Pang-la pass 5,200 meters high with spectacular views of snow capped mountain range from far east Mt. Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu towards Shisapangma with other array of peaks. After a fabulous moment heading towards Rongbuk River and the on the winding uphill reaching at Rongbuk Monastery for overnight stop with close and classic view of Mt. Everest (Chomolungma in Tibetan), here visit the small monastery, actually a nunnery in early days. In Rongbuk there are few lodge, guesthouse, stores and classy modern Chinese government hotel, which does not blend with the surrounding landscapes looking odd on this wild beautiful setting.
From Rongbuk, options hike for few hours or an hour drive to base camp, either way following the Rongbuk river to reach at base camp over rubble of rocks and moraine and crossing small icy fast streams. At base camp setting the 1st camping with separate kitchen units of cooks, helpers including guides and mother camping staff with Chinese Liaison officer it can be Chinese or Tibetans.
Here at base camp busy with repacking and reloading gears for the onward climb after preparation, relax and enjoy the view of Mt. Everest, Pumori, Lingtrin, Changtse and Lho-la snow ridge line that connect with Everest.
Morning packing loads for the yaks to reach advanced base camp, which is 22 km up the valley, which is two days to reach using interim camp between. The walk is easy on the gradual uphill but makes the difference with the high altitude rise as the walk progress to camp on route ABC / Camp I.
On the walk fantastic views of Everest North Face, after starting the journey from intermediate camp, as the walk progress leading to Advance Base Camp which is also a Camp I, form here towards North East another peak rises which is popular among hardy trekkers for the climb of Lakpa Ri at over 6,000 meters high. Final camp for the climb is set in a nice clearing among dunes of moraines, ice and streams after unpacking the Yaks and pitching tents on hard cold icy ground. Afternoon full preparation for the final ascent to achieve our goal and highlight of this great adventure, here our guide and leader will give final briefing regarding the climb with medical advice and climbing technique, lastly to be safe and secure if danger arises, like avalanche and rock falls.
Ascent of Mt. Everest using several camps
16 days allocated as reserve for summit bid, from ABC and Camp I, route follows a moraine on 3 k.m. stretch to reach North Col, climb and cross glacier easily to the foot, about 300 m of fairly snow deep as the climb leads towards a Col at 7,066 m. The Col forms a fairly wide ridge which has ample room for tents. This will be Camp II or III. To the south, the Col rises to become the North Ridge. This is straight-forward snow climbing, eventually steeping into rocky shelves and short buttresses. Another camp will be placed at around 7,700 m. The route to the North East Ridge leading from the top of the North Ridge to the summit will depend on conditions prevailing at the time, following a North Ridge to the crest of North-North-East Ridge or taking a rising traverse towards right to reach the ridge at a higher point. Last and final camp will be established at 8,300 meters high. Early morning reaching a 3rd step at 8,700 m / 28,550 ft with broken rock at base of the pyramid summit, this section a Yellow Band of lime stone extends from 8,200 to 8,600 meters high. The final section climb leads to notorious first and second steps; these are short, but abrupt rises on the North-East Ridge, which offers a challenge and ability of climbing at extreme high altitude! It was on the second step that Mallory and Irvine were last seen before they disappeared in 1924. Once encountering this point the ascent is straight forward and can be easily climbed to the main summit top, 360 degree panorama of snow capped mountains await, after an experience of a life time reaching to our goal feeling high return back to ABC using camps on route descend.
From interim camp cleaning and packing retrace the journey back to base camp as the walk leads to more descend through ice and moraines and finally reaching at base camp after long expeditions to Mt. Everest North col climb, at base reorganize all member guides and staff for final departure briefing before drive back to Kathmandu.
Goodbye to this wonderful spot and great Chomolungma / Everest, from here driving either on the same route towards Pang-la or taking a short rough road via Lungja village on route Cho Oyu peak, either way brings at Old Tingri with the last view of Mt. Everest and then on the Lhasa / Kathmandu highway all the way reaching frontier town in Zhangmu, as Nepali calls it Khasa and in Tibetan Dramu, this town busy with Chinese and Nepali merchants and traders with full of shops and restaurants, including bars, night club and discotheque.
After a great time in Tibet and climb of Mt. Everest North Col, morning after going through immigration and heading towards Friendship and farewell to our Tibetan guide and Liaison officer including land cruiser, truck drivers, at Kodari in Nepal check into immigration and then a scenic drive all the way back to hustle bustle city life of Kathmandu.
This two days reserved in case of delay on climb due to bad weather or on drive back to Kathmandu, on this extra days you can book for sightseeing tour, in our interesting cultural heritage tour around Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan this cities full of world heritage sites, however some of them been damaged from recent earthquake, on this free day with time visiting ministry of tourism to submit the climbing report to respective government department.
Breakfast, transfer to Tribhuvan International airport for departing from Nepal.