Shishapangma Expedition

Shishapangma Expedition

Trip Grade
Strenuous
Max. Altitude
8013m

Overview

Shishapangma, the world’s 14th highest peak, is one of the easiest 8000-meter mountains to climb to its Central Summit (8013m), while the main summit (8027m) is highly challenging and has not been climbed since 2014. Shisha Pangma is located on the Tibetan side of the Himalayas, almost due north of Kathmandu. The peak’s long, steep, jagged southern face rises over 2000 meters, creating it an intimidating sight for would-be climbers. The peak’s Indian-Nepalese name is Gosaitan, which means “Holy Place.” Xixapangma is the Tibetan name for the mountain. Its name means “the peak overlooking the grassy plains” in English.

The final of the 8000m summits to be climbed was Shisha Pangma. Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team are credited with the first ascent in 1964. Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-zhou, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang, Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten made up the team. In 1980, Shisha Pangma was finally allowed to international teams. Mike Browning, Chris Pizzo, and Glenn Porzak made the first ascent of the peak via the Northeast Face in September 1983. By 2003, there have only been 201 successful ascents (to the main summit) and 19 fatalities on Shisha Pangma.

Over 434 persons had successfully completed the climb to the Central Summit as of January 2000, but only 165 had continued to the Main Summit, which is just over an hour away and separated by a knife-edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow. Jan Kieslowski gathered and released this information.

On Shisha Pangma on October 5, 1999, an avalanche killed Alex Lowe, one of America’s strongest and best-known climbers. Also murdered in the avalanche was cinematographer David Bridges, who was shooting the ascent for a documentary. Conrad Anker, a world-renowned climber and friend of Lowe, was also caught in the avalanche but survived.

Simone Moro and Peter Morawsky are credited with the first winter ascent, which they performed on January 14, 2005. This climb’s details may be found here.

Shishapangma Advance Base Camp

Shishapangma Advance Base Camp is 5,600 meters (18,372 feet) above sea level. You head off for the first and second base camp acclimatization after a couple of days of relaxation and preparation at the Advance base camp.

At 6400m/20,997ft, Shishapangma Camp 1 is situated on a flat snowfield with enough room for multiple tents and is clear of avalanche and rockfall hazards. From the advanced base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide takes about four and a half hours, and you (usually) take five and a half hours to reach Camp 1 of Mount Shishapangma. Crossing the Shishapangma glacier from the Advanced base camp to the crampon’s point takes around an hour and a half.

Climbing Mount Shishapangma from Camp 2 (C2) to Camp 3 (C3) takes roughly four hours for climbers of ordinary stamina. Camp 3 is situated between 7,100m/23,300ft and 7,200m/23,622ft in altitude. The climbing path from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is around three and a half hours of vertical ice with a 10-15 degree grade. Almost half of the expedition teams set up Camp3 on the ridge, while the other half ascend a further 120m via fixed lines on a 40-45 degree slope above. It travels through a canyon between two small mountains before landing on the back lawn, taking around 30 minutes to reach the higher section of Camp three from the bottom camp.

Itinerary

01Day

Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.

After the flight and getting refreshed in respective hotels, a rendezvous in Kathmandu with other trekking members for trip orientation, where our guide/leader will inform and brief regarding Tibet, expeditions, hotels, and do and don’ts with evening group dinner.

02-04Day

In Kathmandu necessary preparations.

Free day in kathmandu: for trekking preparation. options for  sightseeing tours at places of interest.

05Day

Drive to Timure.

drive north to kathmandu valley and to reach Timure through teh country side hilly road.

06Day

Drive to Kyirung (2700m)

Drive to the Nepal | Tibet Boarder and cross the boarder and stay overnight.

07Day

Drive to New Tingri (4300M0

Drive to New Tingri overnight

08Day

Rest day in New Tingri

Rest day to acclimatize with altitude, Explore around.

09Day

Drive to Shishapangma Base Camp 4,900m-16,076 ft 3-4 hrs.

The morning after breakfast, the drive continues which will be shorter than the other day but much higher elevation, leading past Tibetan villages and farms with Yaks, Sheep, and goats grazing over the yonder.
to reach Shisapangma (last 14th world highest mountain) Base camp.

After crossing Laylung-la La drive diverts from Lhasa highway towards the west along Mount Kailash road further 25 k.m, then heading south onto an even smaller track, arriving at Base Camp close to Yambughangala River which drains from the north side glacier of Shishapangma.

10-11Day

At Shishapangma Base Camp.

Rest day at Base camp, to acclimatize with the altitude. The guide will teach climbing skills and preparation. After all,  relax and enjoy the views massive bulk of Mt. Shisha Pangma snow ridge line that connects towards its summit top.
Two days at Base Camp preparing and sorting out equipment to load on yaks, at the base with time for acclimatization before the climb higher elevation and need to be in good physical, attitude for the long walk and climb to Advance Base Camp.

12-28Day

Acclimatizing and Climbing Period from ABC onward.

This is a very important time for you before going into the Summit. You spend most of the time acclimatizing and getting used to the mountain.

For the climb, Trexmount Ventures allocates a maximum of 16 days for the Summit bid, from ABC to ABC, around these 16 days making camps higher and returning for the final summit bid, above ABC placing two or three camps depending on conditions, the climb begins with a long crossing glaciers to a large camping area at 6,400m. After pitching Camp I with rest and practice climbing on ice and rocks, heading further, gaining height, to reach a shoulder of the mountain to make Camp II at about 6,900 m. Most of the climb is on scree and snow with some difficulty, The North-West Ridge is easily traversed from Camp II, which involves snow and ice climb up to 45-degree steep angles.

Our guide and leader will fix ropes on all steep and crevassed sections for another camp if necessary; it will be made according to existing conditions. To reach the summit ridge is quite long and with a rising sloping line across the snow slope below it to reach the ridge as close to the summit as possible, we have allowed enough time for the climb, in case of unfavorable weather conditions as well for slow acclimatization. The final section climb leads to the slow pace and finally standing on the top at 8,013 m / 26,289 ft high summit of Mt. Shisha Pangma with a 360-degree panorama of snow-capped mountains awaits, after an experience of a lifetime reaching our goal of feeling a high return back to ABC using few camps on route descend.

29 - 33Day

Summit Attempt

Most waiting challenge time, We have a few days to try for Summit Attempts with depends on the situation. They will deal with your health, weather, and achievements.

34Day

Return to Base Camp.

All expedition members and equipment will need to be back at Base Camp by this day, ready for departure the next day. Once again, yaks will be used to transport all expedition equipment from ABC to Base Camp, at base camp re-organize all member guides and staff for final departure briefing before the drive back to Kathmandu.

35Day

Cleanup and packing and Trek till the end of the road

On this day busy packing and repacking gears and taking care of garbage which should be handed to the Chinese authority, where our local Liaison officer will help you with, the final preparation and packing of the trucks. and trek till the end of the road and Drive.

36Day

Making return journey.

Goodbye to this wonderful spot and great Shisha Pangma, here driving either on the same route towards Nylam on a short rough road via Laylung -la with the last view of Mt. Shisha Pangma and then on the Lhasa / Kathmandu highway all the way reaching the frontier town in Zhangmu, as Nepali calls it Khasa and in Tibetan Drama, this town busy with Chinese and Nepali merchants and traders with full of shops and restaurants, including bars, night club, and discotheque.

37Day

Drive back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.

After a great time in Tibet and climb of Mt. Shisha Pangma, the morning after going through immigration and heading towards Friendship and farewell to our Tibetan guide and Liaison officer including land cruiser, and truck drivers, at Kodari in Nepal check into immigration and then a scenic drive back to hustle bustle city life of Kathmandu.

38 - 39Day

In Kathmandu for individual activities.

This two days reserved in case of delay on climb due to bad weather or on drive back to Kathmandu, on this extra days you can book for sightseeing tour, in our interesting cultural heritage tour around Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan this cities full of world heritage sites, however some of them been damaged from recent earthquake, on this free day with time visiting ministry of tourism to submit the climbing report to respective government department.

40Day

Departure

Breakfast, transfer to Tribhuvan International airport for departing from Nepal.

Includes/Excludes

What is Included?

  • Airport Pick up and drop transfer.
  • Transportation as per the above itinerary.
  • All accommodations (Twin Share)
  • Meals.
  • An experienced guide and required number of porters (one porter in between two pax), their food, accommodation, transportation, salary, insurance, equipment, and so on.
  • Warm sleeping bag, warm down jacket, and walking stick, if necessary.
  • Trek bag.
  • All Government Taxes are included.

Whats not Included

  • Tips to staff or any donations.
  • Single Supplement for single-using rooms
  • Your travel insurance, Medical, and emergency costs (Just in case).
  • All types of drinks (mineral water, any cold drinks, and alcoholic drinks).
  • Any personal expenses which are not mentioned in the price inclusion.

Clients Review

Everest Base Camp & Muktinath Trail Helen & Mark Dwyer Australia

We had a dream to reach Mt Everest Base Camp since we heard about this. One of my friends recommended Trexmount so we have decided to use them for arranging our trek to Everest Base Camp. The treks were very well organized and the guides were extremely knowledgeable, and friendly and looked after us at all times.

Nothing was too much trouble for them and there was always a smile on their faces. We stayed...

Everest Gokyo Ri Trekking Bridget and Ron New Zealand

Namaste Hari and all at Trexmount Ventures, We have just completed our third visit and a Fantastic trek in Nepal with a four-day trek in the Annapurna area and an 18-day trek to Everest base camp and Gokyo. Noelene joined us for the Everest trek and it was her 9th visit! We can highly recommend Trexmount Ventures as a great company. The guides we had, Ram and Tilak were very well informed and also both able to pace the trek to ensure we all reached our...

Trip Info

“full of thrills and excitement throughout this trip, from traditional villages, green hills, pristine forest, amazing landscapes, and high mountains, standing on the top of the world’s last 14 highest Mt. Shisha Pangma at 8,013 m, visiting traditional Tibetan villages and monasteries enrich with old culture, customs are the main attraction and highlights of this mountaineering expeditions”